Friday, January 28, 2011
Thomas Keller's Mushroom Quiche
This is another recipe from Thomas Keller’s Bouchon cookbook. It has long intimidated me because in Keller’s introduction to the recipe he bemoans the American “trashing” of such a French masterpiece. Like all of his recipes, this has many steps and important notes. However, the result is well worth the mental headache of trying to understand the correct process.
I would also like to reassure you that I by no means followed the recipe flawlessly and the result was still DELICIOUS. The mushrooms were so flavorful and the custard was perfectly cooked. You could use this as a backdrop for other fillings but I highly recommend trying the mushrooms first! I didn’t use Keller’s recipe for Buttery Pastry Shell because I didn’t have time to chill it- I’m sure it would be incredible though. I just used a simple pate brisée recipe and only chilled it for about an hour- still delicious.
Keller says that using a two-inch high spring form pan is essential. A deep quiche takes a long time to cook- “which allows the flavors of the ingredients to develop and distribute themselves throughout the custard.” Cooking it slowly also allows for even cooking and ensures the custard does not become rubbery and overdone.
Thomas Keller’s Mushroom Quiche
Adapted from Bouchon
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 pound shitake mushrooms, stems trimmed and large caps halved or quartered
1 pound cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 small shallots, minced
1 tablespoon thyme, chopped
3/4 cup shredded Comté or Emmental cheese (2 1/2 ounces)
Buttery Pastry Shell (see below)
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
6 large eggs, lightly beaten
Freshly grated nutmeg
Preheat the oven to 325°. In a very large skillet, heat the oil. Add the shitake and cremini mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and cook over high heat, stirring, until starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to moderate. Add the butter, shallots and thyme and cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms are tender, about 12 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper and let cool.
Scatter 1/4 cup of the cheese and half of the mushrooms evenly over the bottom of the Buttery Pastry Shell. In a blender or stand mixer, beat half each of the milk, cream and eggs and season with 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt, 1/8 teaspoon of pepper and a pinch of nutmeg at high speed until frothy, about 1 minute. Pour the custard into the pastry shell. Top with another 1/4 cup of cheese and the remaining mushrooms. Make a second batch of custard with the remaining milk, cream and eggs, plus the same amount of salt, pepper and nutmeg as before and pour into the shell. Scatter the remaining 1/4 cup of cheese on top.
Bake the quiche for about 1 1/2 hours, or until richly browned on top and the custard is barely set in the center. Let cool in the pan until very warm.
Using a serrated knife, cut the pastry shell flush with the top of the pan. Carefully lift the spring form pan ring off the quiche. Cut the mushroom quiche into wedges, transfer to plates and serve warm.
Buttery Pastry Shell
Adapted from Bouchon
2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 sticks chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/4 cup ice water
Canola oil, for brushing
In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle, mix 1 cup of the flour with the salt. At low speed, add the butter pieces, a handful at a time. When all of the butter has been added, increase the speed to medium and mix until the butter is completely incorporated. Reduce the speed to low and add the remaining 1 cup of flour just until blended. Mix in the water just until thoroughly incorporated. Flatten the pastry into an 8-inch disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour or overnight.
Set the ring of a 9-inch springform pan on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper, leaving the hinge open. Brush the inside of the ring with oil.
Dust the pastry on both sides with flour. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the pastry to a 16-inch round, about 3/16 inch thick. Carefully roll the pastry around the rolling pin and transfer to the prepared ring, pressing it into the corners. Trim the overhanging pastry to 1 inch and press it firmly against the outside of the ring. Use the trimmings to fill any cracks. Refrigerate the shell for 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375°. Line the pastry shell with a 14-inch round of parchment paper; fill the shell with dried beans or rice. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the edge of the dough is lightly browned. Remove the parchment and beans and continue baking the pastry shell for about 15 minutes longer, or until richly browned on the bottom. Transfer the baking sheet to a rack and let the pastry cool. Fill any cracks with the reserved pastry dough.